Hitz Adventures: “I think I'm turning Japanese; I really think so” (Part 1 of 3)

This is our 4^th time visiting Japan, which led me to the song title reference for this blog.

We are still based in Thailand, so this was a relatively short flight, unlike the circadian rhythm- destroying 15 Hour flight from the US. The plan here was to get into the country before Sakura Mania hits. We would spend a few days in Kyoto, and then do some hiking in the Kii Peninsula.

The flight was uneventful, which is always nice and a rarity for me. The one weird thing; Asian airlines all start playing music about 45 minutes before landing, and the song is usually on a 5 second loop, so it does not take long to embed itself deep into your skull. This coupled with the fact that you must hear longwinded announcement in 3 languages. Something about how it is forbidden to import cattle in your luggage.

Before landing in Osaka, I had purchased a form of the JR Rail Pass. We just had to activate them upon arrival. This would cover most of our bullet trains and transportation between cities but leaving us to pay cash for local subway systems. I should have just downloaded an app to cover those as well, as it is a pain trying to determine cost and tickets. Many times I have gotten into the subway system with a ticket and then trapped trying to exit as I ended up getting off at a different stop then allowed by my ticket. This is an anxiety inducing experience as you slide your ticket into the slot and walk through the turnstile, waiting in fear, not knowing whether the door will shut at the last minute like a Jack-in-the-Box (creepy crank-handle turning sound). On top of the fear this causes, it also backs up the line and makes you look like a fool.

We checked into the Hyatt and headed to dinner as it was already 7pm. I know the Hyatt is not authentic Japanese Ryokan lodging, but we would have plenty of that in days to come and with the prices they charge, I needed to balance that with my free western accommodations. We found a cool place just a block from the hotel for dinner.

On previous trips to Japan we had tried to walk into some places like this and were refused. I thought maybe, understandably, they just did not want to deal with foreigners, but later learned that many of these restaurants are private and the only way to get in is by invitation from one of their current customers. The reason for this policy is because they don’t provide bills after your meals, as they feel it detracts from the dining experience. Instead they send the bill a month later to your residence. And if you don’t pay, they collect from the person who invited you.

Speaking of tradition, now might be a good time to sneak in my history lesson for the country. I have discussed the history of Japan in the past. There are plenty of videos and websites I could link to describing the isolation of the country; the wars with China and Korea; the rise and fall of the Shoguns and Samurai; Reopening of the country by the US and Matthew Perry. I would rather briefly discuss the side of Japan I did not appreciate until recently. I used to feel that Japan was this very respectful society that had done everything right except for a few hiccups, like WW2, but I now see that these people have a real streak of self-righteousness (not that my people don’t as well). I saw that they really believed for most of their history that they were a superior race to the rest of the Asian continent and eventually the world. After raping and pillaging Korea and China and repelling the Mongol invasions, they saw themselves as invincible. I am sure 200 years of isolation, after kicking the Europeans out, did not help things, but even after being defeated in WW2, they felt shame, but no remorse. I was surprised by that. The Germans were ashamed of their actions, but not the Japanese. I used to think that we kinda forced their hand in attacking Pearl Harbor in an effort to get us into the war, but after reading a great deal about the years leading up to the December attack, it is obvious that the Japanese felt that we were just a fly in the ointment when it came to their own Manifest Destiny. We worked hard to improve relations, while protecting China, but a majority in the upper echelon of Japan’s ruling class were hell bent on global supremacy, sidestepping cooler heads, and the emperor, at each turn. It reminded me of the current state of the US where we are faced with this extreme faction (faction is probably the wrong word as it is almost a majority as this point) attempting to dismantle our democracy, and what might happen if they are able to remove every level-headed person from a decision-making position. Japan is an example of the reason why you can’t grow complacent with people like this, slowly allowing their behavior, or before you know it, you will be faced with your own extinction. And that is in fact what these people in Japan had brought about. Once the war fever got ramped up in Japan, the pride and support of the rising sun got to a point where most Japanese were prepared to take the war to its inevitable conclusion, extermination of their entire race. Leading me to feel more and more that the nuclear weapons used may have been a necessity. It may have been the only way to wake up the leaders to the notion that sacrificing an entire nation to save face was not the correct answer.

As I walked the streets I watched people, looking to see if that feeling still existed. Did they still feel superior? Was it just those in the military/government or was it a characteristic of the entire nation? Unfortunately, it is hard to judge when you are a tourist in a tourist city and the people the world over struggle just to tolerate you. As we speak, in Kyoto, streets are being closed off to foreigners because too many are harassing the Geisha as they go back and forth in their daily routine.

Back to the action. The next morning we walked over to Nijo Castle. It was fitting, as I had just listened to a podcast talking about to pivotal rulers in Japan. Tokugawa Ieyasu and Toyotomi Hideyoshi. Both men played key roles in transitioning Japan into the country it has become, as they moved from Daimyo rule to a more centralized Shogun empire with the emperor becoming less and less relevant in daily decision-making. This castle was one of their haunts back when the capital was in Kyoto. I would see their pictures everywhere we went over the next 10 days.

Our next stop was a cut through Nishiki Market to grab some quick snacks. On the way I stopped by a Buddhist temple in a courtyard

I did not take a picture of the shrine / temple, but I am sure you have seen them. They have this long rope in front attached to some noise-making device. I amazed Amy by telling her how a gentleman approaching would throw money in a box, pull the cord, bow 2 times, clap 2 times and bow 1 more time (thank you Youtube). It was like a secret handshake. I am not much on participating in these customs when visiting countries because unless I fully ascribe to the beliefs, I see it as kind of mocking the religion. I mean I don’t even know if this is a shrine or a temple.

We stopped for lunch at a ramen place, that just happened to be the same place we went on our last visit to Kyoto.

We then walked Pontocho Alley. If you come to Kyoto, this is the place you want to go to for drinks and food. It is this tight alley with all these interesting restaurants and shops. We still have not experienced it at night, but I imagine it would be amazing.

We crossed over the river, and before heading to the famous group of shrines and temples, we bought tickets for a Kabuki theater performance. I would compare it to a mix between a musical and an opera. We only watched part of one show, but I would gladly return for another performance

One weird part. I paid for headphones with English interpretation. I wore them during the performance and every 5 minutes a lady would come on and say something like, “The prince is upset and he dances around” Then I would hear nothing for another 5 minutes. I could hear other language headphones cackling nonstop. I played with the volume dial (only thing on this archaic Walkman) but nothing. I felt like the English interpreter really “Phoned” this one in.

Everyone is so proper here and incapable of saying no. From the vendors to the train conductors to the hotel staff. I want to create a Youtube channel where I just go around asking Japanese people strange requests to see how they would handle it. Like asking the receptionist at the hotel, “Do you mind coming to our room and reading us a bedtime story?”

We went to Kiyomizu-dera Bhuddist Temple. We really had not seen crowds so far, that changed in a hurry. The streets were packed! Now I knew why they were shutting things down to protect the little Japanese Women.

There were so many people wearing Kimonos. These were not the Geishas, but rather Japanese tourists. There were Kimono rental shops everywhere. I saw over 50. How do you differentiate yourself as a Kimono rental business? Is the market saturated?

Asians are obsessed with hand gestures during pictures. Usually it is some form of a heart, but I saw a new one where you put your fingers up to your mouth, intimating an expression of "Oh My" surprise or embarrassment.