This blog title is based on song written by Townes Van Zandt, featuring Merle Haggard and Willie Nelson. I chose it because my friend Joe and I have been on many adventures together and after watching the video again, it just felt right.
A lot of these more "edge-of-your-seat" adventures I handle on my own. After the trip, I was reflecting on how this one was different. It is challenging to organize an adventure that fits your tolerances and then flex those expectations in a group environment. You want to live the trip that you envisioned, but you begin to realize that the dynamics of friendship and the benefits it brings are just as important, and worth the effort they require.
Pancho Villa reminds me of other revolutionaries, Che Guevara and Geronimo, who chose to burn out rather than fade away. I suppose I am Poncho in this ballad, trying to outrun the need to just stop planning these crazy trips and relax on a beach somewhere. Joe is Lefty. Keeping me honest, but allowing me to slip the noose in the end.
The idea for this trip came up about 5 months ago. I have not been to Latin America since my COVID Adventure in Guatemala. I was watching a TV special on the Day of the Dead and thought it might be interesting to witness firsthand. It also felt like an easy trip logistically to put together.
The rough plan was for us to fly into Mexico City, rent motorcycles, and take a week exploring the silver cities that lie on a counterclockwise arc 2 hours north of the capital
Before we get too far, here is my summary of Mexican History.
This would be my 6th time in Mexico, but I never really spent too much time in year’s past looking into the history. I have always been interested in 16th century explorers, so I had a working knowledge of the conquest of Moctezuma at the hands of “Cortez the Killer.” This led to the establishment of New Spain, where we learned such terms as Viceroy, Creole, Mestizo, Mulatto, and Slave. This played directly into my trip as, like all colonies, Mexico was exploited to fund further conquests and survival of the Spanish Empire. This was done through silver, specifically the silver mining towns we would be visiting.
In 1821 Mexico gained independence from Spain, partially due to local uprisings led by Miguel Hidalgo, but also the collapse of the empire back home, as it was engaged in war with Napoleon. Consolidation was the theme of the day. The US did their best to fill in as overlords as they pushed into Mexican territory during the Mexican-American war of the 1840s. Here we have the Alamo, Santa Anna and the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, where the US took over what is now the American Southwest. One thing I did not remember about this war, the US actually invaded and took over Mexico City during the conflict. Part of the terms of the peace treaty were that those people occupying the current territories the US “absorbed” would be granted citizenship. Well, we all know how welcoming the US, and especially those in the south, are to new faces. You can guess how that went.
Under Napoleon, France wanted to start trying to reacquire it’s empire of old, so they thought they would reinvade Mexico. They seized on the instability in Mexico at the time, which was emerging from a Conservative vs Liberal Civil War. The Liberals won the civil war, so the conservatives decided to back an invasion by France in order to function as the local puppets in charge for France. Mexico eventually won this war as well; Cinco de Mayo celebration (nothing to do with Mexican war for Independence). We are now in the late 1800s. This is where Mexican history begins to parallel the current situation in the United States. A man, Porfirio Diaz, raised on good intentions of a Mexico for the people, comes to power, and becomes corrupt, as most do. Before heading out on this trip, I read a good book about this man called, “Bad Mexicans: Race, Empire, and Revolution in the Borderlands.” Diaz becomes a dictator and allows the US oligarchs of the early 1900s (Guggenheim and Rockefeller) to exploit Mexico for their own benefit. I will have more to say on this as we move forward, but his actions led to a revolution (2nd civil war) in 1910.
The pendulum swings back, as it always does, towards nationalization and social welfare. Again, as we saw in places like Cuba and Russia, socialism is a great concept on paper, but the human condition unfortunately does not align well with equality, and exploitation and corruption seem to always be the result. That about catches us up to date. Throw the drug cartels in there. There is hope however, as a new Left-wing party has power and Mexico is led by an intelligent, data-driven, educated, female (Claudia Sheinbaum). A female in power In 2024! Good luck dealing with the US.
Back to the actual trip. I landed in CDMX about noon. I was able to check into the hotel. When I reserved the rooms for this trip I tried to get 2 beds at each location in case Joe joined me, but I guess I forgot to adjust on night 1. The Hyatt Andaz was kind enough to provide me a complimentary upgrade to a premier suite, but even though it was huge, with multiple rooms and bathrooms, it had only one bed. The guy said the couch would pull-out, but try as I might, I could not make that happen. I kinda stood there looking at this modern couch, “There is no way this is a bed.” It was around this time that the concierge contacted me and apologized about the mistake. He offered to wheel in a bed, but I declined thinking the king bed was fine for us. I am sure this was a delicate topic for them to broach, as for many on our trip, as we kinda looked like we might have been on a “Brokeback Adventure” anyway.
I then walked 45 minutes through the city, to feel the mood, and end at the motorcycle shop to make sure the bikes actually existed and did not need any modifications before we took off in the morning. We had rented Royal Enfield Himalayans not by choice but rather because this was really the only option from the only outfitter. I liked the bike. A bit bulkier than the 250s I ride in Asia, but they would prove more comfortable for long highway stretches. My bike was really low so I asked them to raise it.
These are the bikes you see in India going through the passes in the… well Himalayas. They fall under the “bulletproof” category. I wish that was the case, but all-in-all I don’t think we can say definitively.
After filling out some paperwork I walked to a local restaurant, Debarbas Bebedero Gourmet Nueva York. I had passed plenty of shady street taco stands along the walk, and should have stopped at one of those, but I had this place saved in my phone and sat down for a beer. The menu was fancy. I only wanted Tacos but ended up with Tapas. Oh well. I caught an Uber over to the Bosque de Chapultepec.
It is the open area of the city where many museums and green spaces reside. I saw this squirrel. Similar to the ones back home but not the color patterns we are used to
I decided to trek up to the highest point at Chapultepec Castle for sunset. A decent climb.
A few murals of the Mexican Revolution I mentioned earlier where our friend below Porfirio Díaz (surrounded by his American cronies) was ousted by the man featured in the second picture, Francisco Madero.
I walked back towards the hotel, stopping for a drink and a couple other photo opportunities
Below is the outside shot of my room which covers all the windows above the red neon sign
Joe arrived and we walked around the Condesa neighborhood. I pretty nice area of the city. Streets lined with trees, many restaurants and bars. We had dinner at Xel-Ha.
We had a nightcap on the rooftop bar back at the hotel. We were both pretty exhausted from a day of travel and wanted to be fresh for the ride out of Mexico City tomorrow
Until Tomorrow,
Darren
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