Our time is Thailand is ending for the season. We are heading back to USA, with a lack of excitement, the first week of April. Fortunately, I have scheduled many trips to keep me out of the country for most of the upcoming months as I have little tolerance for anything going on there. Everyone I talk to back home tells me to stay in Thailand, but we must get things in order back in Ann Arbor.
My visa is expired in the beginning of March, so I needed to make a “Border Run” to get us to April 1st. We decided on Taiwan this year. There is a long list of Asian countries we want to visit, so we just check 1 or 2 off each time we are over on this side of the world.
With global uncertainty and everywhere populist leanings being the flavor of the day, Taiwan has been in the news a bit, allowing everyone to get a primer on their tenuous situation. They are the potential last Chinese domino to fall after Tibet and Hong Kong, and everyone has an eye on the war in Ukraine as a possible beta for Taiwan. Time for our brief lesson on the country.
Formerly called Formosa, when the Portuguese and Dutch “discovered” it. It later became the Republic of China (ROC), as opposed to current People’s Republic of China (PRC) which is name of mainland China. “Chinese Taipei” is another fun one they use when competing for the Little Baseball World Series.
I don’t really discuss much prehistoric stuff as it seems similar for all countries; Cavemen running around with stone tools. Things heat up when explorers discovered the Maritime Silk Road in the 16th century. Dutch settled in, then China, and the Japanese ruled for the first half of the 20th century (Read about Nanking Massacre for a nice bedtime story about Sino-Japanese War). When Japan lost WW2, China was going through a civil war resulting in Communism winning out on the mainland (common theme in SE Asia at the time) and the Nationalists party (KMT), led by Chiang Kai-Shek (CSK), retreating to the island of Taiwan. Taiwan became a democratic state, sometimes in name only as the KMT treatment of civilians was not much better than the PRC. There has been much debate between the 2 main political parties of Taiwan as to how to treat PRC. The DPP want complete separation, while the KMT hold out hopes for a reunification when the mainland assumes democratic principles. Mainland China (PRC) wants unification on their terms.
62 % of population identify as Taiwanese, 3% percent as Chinese, 35% percent as both. Global players have a weird relationship with Taiwan. The US does not recognize it as separate country from China but does have a treaty in place to defend them, assuming it is not a war for independence. Of course that was all before Trump, so who knows what will happen in the next year. It almost feels like the old “Don’t’ ask don’t’ tell” military policy for gay soldiers which is also back in the spotlight.
Confucianism, Daoism (Taoism), and Buddhism are the three main religions and philosophies of ancient China. I would say Confucianism is focused on human experience, Taoism is the natural world around us and Buddhism is larger still. So, I almost feel if it were a set of nesting dolls it would go from inward out, in the order of Confucianism, Taoism and Buddhism. Obviously, this is an extreme oversimplification, but it helps me create some sort of distinction in my head, even if it be completely wrong.
Taiwan recognized in the 1950s and 60s that they do not have many natural resources, so they invited western thinkers to advise them on how to grow their exports and thereby the economy. At first, they excelled at importing unfinished products and assembled for export (petroleum for plastics). In the 1980s everything in the US came from Taiwan, not China, or Vietnam as it does today. Then they moved on to electronics, more specifically computer components. It is their semiconductors that has countries pretending they support their need for representation or independence.
China and the US are adversaries, but if I had to predict, I would foresee Trump trying to make some kind of agreement with China to allow them to regain Taiwan in return for some financial/technology deal. I know people say he is tough on China, but I just don’t see that as being as attractive as trying to split up the world between the Soviet Union, China and US empires.
Our direct flight from Bangkok on Chinese Airlines (official airline of Taiwan) felt like the Spirit Airlines of China. Full of screaming kids and oddballs. The Movie screen in the seat-back looked like the old Commodore 64 Apple computer from the 80s. All it was missing was the green screen and a blinking cursor.
The subway system was efficient. It rivals Japan and light years ahead of Thailand. As a result I did not see as many scooters or traffic in general on the streets downtown
We bought a subway pass on arrival and loaded with $30 and I think we only used half of it even though we used it every day as primary mode of transportation.
On our way to hotel we got directionally challenged switching between 2 subway lines and I asked a local kid where to go. I showed him my “Trip Planning” document where I had typed the name of the subway line we wanted. He looked at it, then at me, and then typed our hotel into google maps and walked us to the escalator for intended route. After he left, Amy told me we looked like idiots carrying a “MapQuest” printout from early 2000s. And he probably walked us all the way to train like an old couple over concern we would get lost again.
A nice sign on the train mentioned no talking on phone, chewing gum, or music, and women should keep their legs closed. I am in total support of most of this behavior.
We checked into the Grand Hyatt right next to the 101 Building (formerly the tallest building in the world).
Everyone told us to eat at Din Tai Fung restaurant.It is a chain, but the most popular Taiwanese restaurant. They gave us a number and told us 45 minutes
I did not really understand their numbering system as the screen had tons of random numbers on the screen but we walked around downtown while we waited.
After returning, we were told 60 minutes longer. We walked around the same 2 blocks, I drank some disgusting alcohol and took videos of a dog riding a skateboard. Another 60 minutes. Our 3rd time around and back, after eating a pre-dinner dinner, we were right on time.
We ordered Xiao Long Bao (Soup Dim Sum), as we did for every meal the next 5 days, along with beef noodles and various other small plates.
It was decent but not worth a 3Hr wait. The next day we hit the streets. We walked to the Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial. Even though Taipei is densely populated, there is lots of parks and green space. The city is nestled beneath lush green hills with the ocean just beyond to the north.
I mentioned earlier that Chiang Kai-Shek fought against communism, losing and retreating to the island of Taiwan. He had about 1,500 statues around the island, but over time people have become more open about the oppressive conditions under his militant leadership. He now retains a complicated legacy here.
Our next stop was the Peace Park for a free local tour.
Our guide rehashed a lot of the nuggets from my research but making it a little more real world for me. Many of the buildings we passed were created by the Japanese during their occupation. Japan brought a great deal of infrastructure and modernization, but at a cost.
I thought this sign was comical. I joked to Amy that they had separate bathrooms based on your needs at the time (No.2 Toilet)
She failed to get my joke as she told me there was a number 3 and 4 bathroom at other spots around the park.
Many of the park parks have knobby stones to help diagnose various ailments based on where your foot hurts (reflexology)
We moved on from the park deeper into the caverns of the city
After the tour we backtracked to an excellent pork bun shop and upstairs ice cream parlor
We rode the subway back towards the hotel to tackle the ‘Elephant Trail” with a decent view of the city. It was 80 degrees but literally everyone here was dressed like we were in the Arctic. Now I know why the “Canada Goose” clothing chain does so well in Asia
It was a hot day, making the hike up tiring, stopping at the “101 Building Fireworks View”. Every new Years the 101 building shoots fireworks off and it is seen worldwide as Asia celebrates before the clock strikes in the Western Hemisphere.
We closed the day by actually going up in the 101 Building (named for 101 floors). It also has the fastest elevator in the world
It is one of a few tall building that use this massive metal ball to dampen the swaying of the tower during high winds
The next morning we headed to the National Museum. While waiting for a taxi, I noticed how scooters have designated spot to wait for traffic lights. The complete opposite to the chaos in Thailand. We decided on a taxi only after I guided us onto a city bus that took us back the 2kms we just walked from the hotel.
When CKS and his followers retreated here after WW2, they brought many of the national artifacts. We got English headphones and started a 3 hour audio tour after more Dim Sum in the museum restaurant
I picked up a wall print of the below image. When I took it to the register, Amy asked how much it was. The lady at register responded that it was 3000 Taiwan Dollars ($100) and Amy said, “Put it back!” I told the lady we had could not get it. I felt like a child at grocery store trying to sneak candy into the shopping cart. Eventually I was allowed to purchase it.\
My favorite piece at the museum was this celebrated “Meat Stone”
Amy doing stupid things to embarrass herself
After the museum we walked around the city a bit more.
We stumbled into this seedy area where all the alleys were some cross between brothels and karaoke bars staffed with “seasoned/experienced” prostitutes. It was about 1 in the afternoon so only your hardcore patrons were engaging.
In all the market stalls, socks seemed to be the big seller. I think everyone here wears muted colors, but secretly expresses themselves with bold and colorful undergarments. I was going to use bras and underwear to express this point but it seemed creepy to take pictures of those shops.
Stop at a Michelin rated pork bun stand
Stopped at a Chinese Buddhist temple to pay our respects.
This little wood pieces that looked like watermelon slices are actually a version of Tarot cards. You toss them on the ground a few times and read how they land to foresee your future, or so I assume.
The older generation seems to just sit outside the temple all day
The next day we headed out of the city to visit the mining town of Jiufen. Grabbed some breakfast just outside train station. Amy chocked on it and could not breath for a bit. She just looked up at me with these crazed, watery eyes. I just stared back muttering, “Are you gunna finish that or can I have it?”
Friendly little guy next to breakfast stand
Lots of public transportation on this trip. For some reason it always leaves me nauseous. So, a rough day by the time we got to Jiufen. We walked the Old Street and had lunch with a view over the ocean.
We caught a bus to our lodging outside town. Too early for checkin so we set up camp in a quiet coffee shop and read for 2 hours.
Amy took a nap at the hotel and I walked to the Gold Museum to learn how to extract and process gold and copper deposits. The mine eventually shut down like all mines when the cost for processing outweighed the yield. One thing that was interesting was that it was also the site of a major POW camp in WW2 where the Japanese “enlisted” people to work the mines
We had dinner at a little spot in the village. A great deal of Japanese influence remains as the area never regained a footing once the mine closed not long after Japanese departed.
Quite a backdrop for afternoon recess at ghe local school
Breakfast in the morning and a trip back into the city for one last hotel stop
Stopped off at the town Shifen. Big during Lantern festivals. People set off huge lanterns. They don’t travel very far as you can see them littering the trees. Need to come up with a solution to retain the tourists, but curtail the trash.
It rained all day, even back in Taipei. We walked the city a bit and had dinner at a Japanese restaurant. A flight out the next morning.
Taiwan was good to us. Lucky with the weather and great food. Happy to get a chance to explore some of the country. Who knows if the opportunity will continue to exist, but I wish all the best for these people as they attempt to navigate the complicated path that lies in front of them.
Until next time,
Darren
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