In the morning I got up and got in line for breakfast 30 minutes before they opened. I learned my lesson yesterday as about 10 deep in the line would delay about 45 minutes and since breakfast didn’t start until 8am, I wanted to get on the trail by 9 at the latest. I ordered an omelet, but it came covered in jam, which is just not the taste combination I was looking for to start the day
I got a storm alert on my Garmin rescue device. That’s no good. It said a major storm was rolling in, and I would be pretty well exposed at the top of the range. Oh well, I got a schedule to keep, not much I can do but try to tip toe between the lightning bolts. My itinerary for the day had me: “leaving Hala Ornak Lodge on the GREEN trail, very quiet path with fantastic views over Dolina Tomanowa. It is a rather long climb to the top of the ridge but the views will keep you distracted. After approximately 3 hours of climbing, you will reach Chuda Przelaczka – yet another point with beautiful views. Only a short walk further is Ciemniak (2096 masl) – first peak of Czerwone Wierchy ridge. The hike will then become a gentle ridge walk over 3 peaks: Krzesanica (2122 masl), Malolaczniak (2096 masl) and Kopa Kondracka (2005 masl).From the last top descent to the hut ‘Schronisko na Hali Kondratowej’, your accommodation. First, take YELLOW trail down to Kondracka Przelecz and then change to BLUE, directly to the hotel.”
It really was a beautiful secluded trail as I worked my way back up to the ridge at Chuda Przelaczka
I got “takeaway meal” from last lodging and decided to eat that. It was a bit weird as it was a hard boiled egg, a cucumber, some lettuce leaves, slice of cheese and 1 small piece of bread. I mixed things up and decided to channel my inner PF Changs and make a lettuce wrap. It failed miserably and just ended up eating each item on its own.
Here is a better summary I saw than I can create for this creature
I then worked my way over to Ciemniak
The weather started to turn as I bagged the peaks of Krzesanica, Malolaczniak, and Kopa Kondracka.
I took a short video to give you an idea of the weather that was starting to come through
I made it past and started down the hill towards my lodging in double-time pace trying to beat the rain
This shelter was a quick break for a beer. I originally wanted to overnight here, but they are closed for renovations this year, but a food truck was on site.
I rolled into Hotel Kalatówki just as the heavens were opening up.
You don’t know how important it is to stay dry on a multi-day hike with limited dry clothes. I was blessed and will try to remember it next time I get caught in a storm to even out the score.
This place was a slight step up from the last 2 nights as I was closer to the town of Kuznice. A nice map on the wall that gave me more of a 3D feeling for my 6 day route.
Restaurant was nice but I wish I had known the trout was cooked whole. Have we discussed how I don’t like to work for my meal?
Drizzling in the morning as I started up after breakfast walking down through town of Kuznice before starting back up.
It was a short hike up to Hala Gąsienicowa
Honestly I could have done yesterday and today together in one day, but glad I didn’t due to the weather. I actually made it to the lodge by about noon.
For lunch, my new go to meal was Bigos, A Hunter’s Stew of meat and Sauerkraut. And yes, the first time I ordered I did walk up and ask for “Hunter’s Stew” and received the appropriate blank stare.
I then promptly took a nap in a chair. Fortunately there was a lake about 30 minutes walk from the lodge, so when I checked in around 2pm, I left my bags and headed over.
There is a trail going up the hillside in below picture. I saw a lot of people hiking with helmets sticking out of their packs earlier in the day. I did not see actual climbing rope so I assume it was for trails like this where rock falls when scrambling could be an issue.
A beautiful alpine lake. Back at the lodge I thought this was interesting
I saw the iron railings upstairs
They had a sign at the base of the stairs
Here is the translation:
Stuff I had already learned from my interactions with the symbol in Buddhism, but provided some good context or I would have assumed this might have been the notorious Eagle’s Nest.
I spent the night in a 6 person Dorm room. I overdosed on sleeping pills to avoid getting woken up at all hours by disrespectful roommates. I was in a medical coma but I do remember opening my eyes a few times to faces staring directly at me. When it was morning I woke up naked in bed with the covers and pillow on the floor. Must have been a good night.
Breakfast in the lodge. 2 observations. I have never seen so many NY Yankees hats outside of NYC in my life. It is quite amazing. 2nd behind that was Chicago Bulls Jordan t-shirts and jerseys. I feel like this country was living in 90s Americana. 2nd observation. Polish men are intimidating. I did not know they were so big. I learned that they had the #1 volleyball team in the world and it made sense. I guess part of the stereotype we grew up with in the US regarding Polish people I referenced earlier led to feeling that Poles must also be small and cowardly. How else did they get defeated so easily by the Germans and Russians. Well, that surely is not the case. There were very few Poles I saw that I would want to tussle with.
One more night on the trail. Today I would hike to Dolina Pieciu Stawow Polskich. Basically just following a yellow trail all the way up to the top
Last big ascent of the trip coming up. That moment when you walk up the end of a valley and you realize there is no way out of here but up
All downhill. You can just make out the lodge on the small lake to the left in the picture below
I repeated the cycle of lunch, beers, checkin, nap, beers, and dinner. I forgot to mention that Apple Strudel is customary with each meal, or so I assumed
My favorite lodge of the trip, mostly because it was the most remote with a great view. Nice to sit under the stars after dark.
The next morning it was all downhill back towards the train station.
Back in Zakopane for the night. It was a holiday. I walked the streets until about 8pm then called it a night
One more night in Krakow. I was scheduled to visit the prison camp of Auschwitz today. I even bought the 4 hour guided tour ticket, but after thinking about it I declined. I had done my homework. I knew what went on there, going to see it, I felt, would only bury the pain deep within me and leave me hallow for what I would hope would only be days, but feared longer.
It was a solid trip. I did not get to have any decent conversations or invited behind the tourist curtain for a locals only experience but I enjoyed myself. I did appreciate being the only American doing this hike, as far as I could tell. I leave with a positive experience and a newfound respect for the people of Poland.
Until Next Time,
Darren
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